This is another update to Ceramics update. I’ve done a number of the little dishes shown there as glazing experiments, and I finally got them all back (except for the pieces I glazed on the last day of class—I won’t get those back until next Thursday, Dec 21). I did no work with wet clay on the last day of class—just show-and-tell on my glazed pieces, glazing the last of my bisqueware, and doing a lot of cleanup in the studio (we try to stay welcome in the high-school studio by leaving the studio cleaner than we find it—especially at the end of each semester).
I am now using the slab roller to make an initial slab about 7mm thick that is cut out with my circular cutter and then pressed in the mold. The slightly thicker slab seems to work better than the 6mm thickness I got with the rolling pin and sticks. Scraping the slab with the edge of a credit card to remove the canvas texture from the slab roller improves the impression of the mold. I’ve also gotten better at using the corn starch as a mold release (putting it on both the mold and the clay circles), so the clay is not sticking much to the mold.
Here are the little tea-ball holders with information about the glazing:
These 4 were dipped in “Noxema blue”, a glaze who color comes from cobalt. Cobalt blues are one of my favorite pottery colors.
Here are the tops of the same 4 tea-ball holders.
I also did 4 that I dipped half in shiny milk white, then the other half in Noxema blue, with only a small overlap
Here are the tops of the dishes in the previous picture.
I bought a commercial glaze at Phoenix Ceramic Supply: Papaya gloss from Western Ceramic Colors. I was not sure how it would come out on Bravo buff clay, as the samples at Phoenix were all done on Danish white. Glaze info in the next caption.
All four have iron oxide painted on the bottom before waxing. The two on the left were painted with the papaya gloss. The bottom right was dipped in shiny milky white before being painted with papaya gloss. The top right was dipped halfway in shiny milky white, then the other half painted with papaya gloss. The papaya gloss does give the bright orange color I was hoping for.
I made several more half-and-half dishes. All had the bottoms painted with black iron oxide, then they were dipped half way in another glaze. Clockwise from the top left we have woo yellow, floating blue, tasty purple, and candy red, with black beauty in the center.
I think that all these glazes worked, except the woo yellow, which is a matte glaze, not a shiny one, and the effect next to the shiny milky white is not really showing it at its best.
This dish was dipped in iron oxide (before waxing the bottom) then in shiny milky white.
As seen from the top, the effect is not really what I was hoping for, looking dirty rather than giving a good contrast between the oxide and the white.
The bottoms were painted with black iron oxide (though the bottom two got only a little flowed into the stamped hallmarks). The two on top both had cobalt carbonate painted around the rim on the outside (way too much) and were dipped half in mulberry and half in noxema blue. The bottom right is half tasty purple and half noxema blue. The bottom left is tasty purple, noxema blue, and shiny milky white, overlapping.
The tops show spillover from the cobalt carbonate painting. I like both the bottom ones, with the overlap of shiny milky white and noxema blue being particularly nice.
Again the top two had (too much) cobalt carbonate painted on the rim on the outside. Then dipped half in mulberry, half in shiny milky white. The bottom piece is half tasty purple and half robin’s egg blue.
The tops look better than the bottoms, because they don’t have the excessive cobalt carbonate.
I also wanted to try some browns. Again all the bottoms were painted with varying amounts of black iron oxide, then the dishes dipped halfway in shiny milky white. The top two were then dipped in eggshell and the bottom two in Ohata.
The eggshell does not really show up over the shiny milky white, coming out almost the color of the underlying bravo buff clay, but the ohata blends well with the white.
Several of the dishes have flaws on the outside, near the foot, because one of the other students, when cleaning, accidentally knocked the mold onto the floor, and part of the center insert was chipped. I’m thinking of redoing the bottom mold to have the center plug extend to the first ring on the outside, rather than ending on the foot. If I do that, I’ll also make the foot a little larger, though probably not enough to allow me to glaze the bottom of the dishes (except maybe in the hallmarks).