Gas station without pumps

2014 September 17

Putting the heater in a box

Continuing the saga of the incubator project in the recent posts:

On my to-do list for the project

  • Put the whole thing into a styrofoam box, to see whether extra venting is needed to allow things to cool down, and to see how tightly temperature can be controlled. Find a smaller bread board or prototype board to put the controller on—my current bread boards are all 6.5″ long, and the box only has room for 6″, especially since I put the resistor in the center of the 6″×12″ aluminum plate, which just fits the box. I suppose I could drill a couple more holes in the plate and mount the resistor off center, but I rather like the idea of building the controller as an Arduino shield, so that the Arduino + controller is a single unit. Another possibility is to drill a hole in the styrofoam box and run cables through the box for the resistive heater, the fan, and the thermistor. Even if the grounds are connected outside the box, this is only 8 wires. Putting the control electronics outside the box would reduce the clutter in the box and make tweaking easier

    I got this done today, by drilling a hole in the box and soldering long wires onto the resistor and the thermistor, so that all the active electronics could live outside the box. Incidentally, “drilling” did mean using a drill bit, but I held it and turned it with my fingers—styrofoam is so soft and grainy that I feared a power drill would tear out big chunks.

    Here is the interior of the styrofoam box, with the lid open.  The 6"×12" aluminum plate covers the bottom.  The thermistor is on the left, propped up by a rubber foot, the resistor in is the center, and the fan is sitting on a foam pad on the right. (The foam is to reduce noise until I can get the fan proper mounted in a baffle.)

    Here is the interior of the styrofoam box, with the lid open. The 6″×12″ aluminum plate covers the bottom. The thermistor is on the left, propped up by a rubber foot, the resistor in is the center, and the fan is sitting on a foam pad on the right. (The foam is to reduce noise until I can get the fan proper mounted in a baffle.)

    As expected, I can heat up the thermistor fairly quickly, but if I overshoot on the temperature, it takes a very long time for the closed box to cool back down. Cooling off just 1°C took over half an hour.

  • Add some low-pass filtering to the temperature measurement to reduce noise. Just adding 4 measurements in quick succession would reduce the noise and give the illusion of extra precision.

    I did this also. With the box closed, the thermistor reading is fairly stable, with fluctuations of less than 0.1°C (which was the resolution with a single thermistor reading before adding 4 successive reads).

  • The fan controller occasionally has a little glitch where the tachometer either misses a pulse or provides an extra one (I think mainly an extra one due to ringing on the opposite edge).  I could try reducing this problem in three ways: 1) changing which edge I’m triggering on, 2) using more low-pass filtering before the Schmitt trigger in the edge detector, or 3) using median filtering to throw out any half-length or double-length pulses, unless they occur as a pair.  (Hmm, the half-length pulses would occur as a pair, so this might not help unless I go to median of 5, which would be a lot of trouble.)

    I fixed this also, using two techniques:

    1. In the program I have 3 states for the interrupt routine that catches the edges: normally, I check that the edge is within 3/4 to 3/2 of the previously recorded pulse—if so I record it and continue. If it is less than 3/4 as long, I skip it, and change to a skip state. If it is more than 3/2 as long, I skip it and switch to a force state. In the skip state, I ignore the reading and switch to the force state. In the force state, I accept the pulse length (whatever it is), and switch to the normal state. With this state machine, I ignore a double-length pulse or a pair of half-length pulses together.
    2. The rising edge of the pulse from the tachometer is very slow (thanks to the RC filter of the pullup), but the falling edge is sharp. Extraneous pulses are more likely to occur if I trigger on the slow edge rather than fast edge, so I switched the polarity to make sure that I was using the falling edge (which is the rising edge of the output of the Schmitt trigger).

    I think that changing which edge I used made a bigger difference than trying to suppress the erroneous reads digitally. I no longer hear the occasional hiccup where the control algorithm tries desperately to double or half the fan speed because of a misread timing pulse.

  • Improve my anti-windup methods for both thermal and fan controllers, to reduce overshoot.

    I changed from using conditional integration and back calculation of the integration error to using a decay of the integration error based on the difference between the computed PWM setting and the limit when the limits were exceeded. I’m not sure this improved anything though, and it introduces yet another parameter to tune, so I may go back to the previous method. I did play around with the tuning parameters for the fan loop today, and realized that I still don’t have good intuition about the effect of parameter changes. I noticed that the fan control was oscillating a little (small fluctuations around the desired speed, but big enough that I could hear the changes), and I found ways to reduce the oscillations, but at the expense of slower response to step changes.

  • Improve my modeling of the thermal system, so that I can do more reasonable back calculation on setpoint change.

    I still need to do more thinking about the thermal modeling, since it is clear that I can’t afford overshoot when heating (though overshoot during slow cooling is unlikely to be a problem).

Still on my list with no progress:

  • Consider using a PID controller for the temperature to get faster response without overshoot.  (If I can reduce the noise problem.)
  • Design and build baffling for the fan to get better airflow in the box. I’ve made a little paper and wire baffle, to get better air flow over the resistor, but I’ve not done the full baffling to get good airflow in the box.
  • Figure out how to get students to come up with workable designs, when they are starting from knowing nothing. I don’t want to give them my designs, but I want to help them find doable subproblems. Some of the subproblems they come up with may be well beyond the skills that they can pick up in the time frame of the course. The more I work on this project, the more I realize that I and the students will have to be happy with them having explored the options, without getting all the problems solved.

I want to add to the list today:

  • Add changes to the cumulative error term whenever KP or TI are changed, to keep the PWM output the same after the changes—currently changing any of the control loop parameters adds a huge disturbance to the system.
  • Separate the control algorithm better from the rest of the code, so that I can use the same code base and quickly switch between different control algorithms: on/off, on/off with hysteresis, proportional control, proportional control with offset, PI control, PI control with anti-windup variants, PID control.
  • Add an option for recording the response of the system over a long time, so that I can plot input and output of the system with gnuplot. This would be nice for the fan control loop, but I think it will be essential for the temperature control loop.
  • Research control algorithms other than PI and PID, particularly for asymmteric systems like the temperature control, where I can get fairly quick response to the inputs when heating, but very slow response when cooling.

2014 September 15

Controlling the heater and fan

Here is the circuit for the heater and fan that I’ve been developing for incubator project for the freshman design course:

    Here is the circuit I've been using for playing with control loops. (The 74HC14N Schmitt trigger inverter does not have an enable input, but SchemeIt has a very limited and idiosyncratic set of schematic symbols, so I used the closest one.)

Here is the circuit I’ve been using for playing with control loops. (The 74HC14N Schmitt trigger inverter does not have an enable input, but SchemeIt has a very limited and idiosyncratic set of schematic symbols, so I used the closest one.)

Yesterday and this morning, when I was developing the controller software for the fan and resistive heater, I ran into a lot of problems with overshoot when changing the setpoints. For the fan controller I wrote One thing that helped was not accumulating integral error when the PWM signal was pinned at the lowest or highest values.”  I also switched to using RPM rather than pulse duration as the measured variable, because RPM is nearly linear with the PWM input (RPM approximately 24.1 PWM + 878). Another thing “that helped was to make a guess at the target PWM setting when the setpoint was changed (using d RPM/ d PWM =24 and the current PWM setting and RPM value), then setting the cumulative error to what it would be in steady state at that PWM. I then set the PWM to five times as far from current PWM as the target PWM to make the transition as fast as possible without increasing overshoot, making sure to clip to the legal 0..255 range.”  Because I have a reasonable model for RPM as a function of PWM, it was easy to estimate what the target PWM should be so that the cumulative error from the integrator would set the PWM value correctly once the error dropped enough that the desired PWM value was no longer pinned at the limits.

Today I decided to do a little reading to find out what other people have done about the problem of the controller overshooting when the actuator hits its limits.  It turns out that the phenomenon is know as “integrator windup“, and the two solutions I came up with are standard solutions.  Turning off the error accumulation when the actuator is at its limit and more movement in that direction is desired is known as “conditional integration” and guessing the correct setting for the cumulative error on setpoint change is a form of “back calculation”.  There are more sophisticated forms of back calculation that I might want to try implementing.  (I found a better explanation of the anti-windup scheme, which I might base my next implementation on—basically it gradually reduces the cumulative error to 0 as long as the desired setting for the actuator is past its limits.)

The temperature controller has been harder for me to tune, for several reasons:

  • The response time is very long.  Instead of oscillating around 5Hz, the period seems to be more like 90 seconds.  This means that it takes a long time to see whether an adjustment to the parameters makes a difference.
  • The temperature at the thermistor is dependent on the temperature at the resistor.  The thermal mass and thermal resistance act like an RC circuit (with temperature analogous to voltage, and power dissipated analogous to current).  Adjusting the power to the resistor via PWM changes the rate at which the temperature increases.  It also changes the eventual equilibrium temperature, but the PWM control is more directly of the rate of temperature change.
  • The heatsink and resistor continue to warm the air and the measuring thermistor even after all power to the resistor is cut off, so there is a big danger of overshoot whenever the setpoint temperature is increased.
  • The control is asymmetric—dumping 40W of power into the resistor heats it up fairly fast, but heat is only slowly dissipated when power is turned off.  Running the fan fast helps a little here, slowing down the temperature rise and speeding up the cool down, but once I put the whole thing in a closed box, it will be very difficult to cool things off if the box gets too warm.  This makes overshoot in the positive direction  a serious problem.
  • The temperature measurements are only about 0.1°C resolution, and the noise on the ADC is about ±4LSB, so it will be difficult to get tight temperature control, even with a perfectly tuned controller.
  • I don’t have a simple model of what the steady-state thermistor temperature will be given the PWM input, so I’ve had difficulty coming up with a guess about the eventual PWM value for resetting the cumulative error on a setpoint change.  I have a model for the resistor temperature in still air, but the fan makes a huge difference, both in the thermal resistance (and so both the equilibrium temperature and time constant of the resistor heating) and in the coupling between the resistor and the thermistor.

I still have a lot of things left over from a couple of days ago, and I’ve added some new things to the list.

  • Put the whole thing into a styrofoam box, to see whether extra venting is needed to allow things to cool down, and to see how tightly temperature can be controlled. I’ve put stuff in the box, but I can’t close the box with the stuff sticking out, so it doesn’t really count.
  • Design and build baffling for the fan to get better airflow in the box. I’ve made a little paper and wire baffle, to get better air flow over the resistor, but I’ve not done the full baffling to get good airflow in the box.
  • Figure out how to get students to come up with workable designs, when they are starting from knowing nothing. I don’t want to give them my designs, but I want to help them find doable subproblems.  Some of the subproblems they come up with may be well beyond the skills that they can pick up in the time frame of the course. The more I work on this project, the more I realize that I and the students will have to be happy with them having explored the options, without getting all the problems solved.
  • Find a smaller bread board or prototype board to put the controller on—my current bread boards are all 6.5″ long, and the box only has room for 6″, especially since I put the resistor in the center of the 6″×12″ aluminum plate, which just fits the box.  I suppose I could drill a couple more holes in the plate and mount the resistor off center, but I rather like the idea of building the controller as an Arduino shield, so that the Arduino + controller is a single unit.
  • Another possibility is to drill a hole in the styrofoam box and run cables through the box for the resistive heater, the fan, and the thermistor.  Even if the grounds are connected outside the box, this is only 8 wires. Putting the control electronics outside the box would reduce the clutter in the box and make tweaking easier.
  • Add some low-pass filtering to the temperature measurement to reduce noise.  Just adding 4 measurements in quick succession would reduce the noise and give the illusion of extra precision.
  • The fan controller occasionally has a little glitch where the tachometer either misses a pulse or provides an extra one (I think mainly an extra one due to ringing on the opposite edge).  I could try reducing this problem in three ways: 1) changing which edge I’m triggering on, 2) using more low-pass filtering before the Schmitt trigger in the edge detector, or 3) using median filtering to throw out any half-length or double-length pulses, unless they occur as a pair.  (Hmm, the half-length pulses would occur as a pair, so this might not help unless I go to median of 5, which would be a lot of trouble.)
  • Improve my modeling of the thermal system, so that I can do more reasonable back calculation on setpoint change.
  • Consider using a PID controller for the temperature to get faster response without overshoot.  (If I can reduce the noise problem.)
  • Improve my anti-windup methods for both thermal and fan controllers, to reduce overshoot.

2014 September 14

PWM heater and fan continued

Filed under: freshman design seminar — gasstationwithoutpumps @ 22:29
Tags: , , , , , ,

Yesterday I gave myself the following to-do list:

  • Check the VDS voltage at 4A on the nFET. Is the on-resistance still much too high?

    Yes, with the 1.8Ω resistor I get 110mV across the FET with 8.372V across the resistor, so at 4.65A I’m seeing an on-resistance of 24mΩ, still much higher than the 10mΩ I was expecting, but closer than I was getting yesterday at 1A. The voltage across the nFET does go up as the nFET warms up, but the nFET does not get too hot (up to around 45°C).

  • Try adding a 1kΩ gate resistance to slow down the transitions on the PWM, to see if that reduces the inductive spikes and the noise-coupling through the 9V power supply.

    Slowing the transitions definitely reduced the spikes, from about 13V to about 1V.  The bypass capacitors absorbed the highest-frequency spikes, and the 470µF polymer electrolytic capacitor seems to be enough—the 10µF ceramic doesn’t seem to add any extra suppression.  At about 94% duty cycle the noise on the power supply is about the following:

    gate resistor bypass capacitor peak-to-peak noise
     0Ω  none  20V
     1kΩ  none  3V
     0Ω  10µF  2.5V
     1kΩ  10µF  2.5V
     0Ω  470µF  1V
     1kΩ  470µF  0.3V

    The slew rate for the drain voltage with the 1kΩ gate resistor is about +7V/µs and -5V/µs.

  • Write a simple control loop for the fan speed, so that the fan speed can be held constant even when the power-supply voltage changes.  This may be an opportunity to try the P/PI/PID tuning, since the control loop should be fairly fast.

    I wrote a simple PID controller with the control variable being the fan PWM and the measured variable being the time per pulse (in µsec).  I tried tuning the controller by adjusting the proportional gain until the control loop barely oscillated, then cutting the gain to 0.45 of that and setting the integration time to about period of the oscillation (very loosely estimated).  I then tweaked the parameters until it seemed to give good control without oscillation over the full range of fan speeds.I tried the differential control, but the noisiness of the speed measurement (which I was not filtering at all) makes the derivative far too touchy, even with tiny amounts of differential control, so I used a simple PI controller instead.  I don’t think that the optimal parameters are the same at the high speed and low speed for the fan, but it was not difficult to find parameters that worked fairly well across the range.  One thing that help was not accumulating integral error when the PWM signal was pinned at the lowest or highest values.

    The speed is almost linear with the PWM input, so I would probably get better control if I used speed (the reciprocal of the pulse duration) as the measured value in the controller.

    The fan speed is nearly linear with PWM, which is ideal for proportional control.  But I had foolishly used the pulse duration as my measured value to control.

    The fan speed is nearly linear with PWM, which is ideal for proportional control, but I had foolishly used the pulse duration as my measured value to control.

    I rewrote the controller as a simple PI controller, using 16*RPM as my measured variable, so that I could have an integer setpoint with sufficient resolution. I’m still using floating-point in the controller for simplicity of coding but I plan to switch to fixed-point soon. This controller was fairly easy to tune—I made the Kplarge enough that system oscillated, and counted how many samples were in the period, then set the integration time to about the period. I then reduced Kp until the oscillations went away. I ended up with Kp = 0.01 PWM/16RPM and TI= 1/0.15 samples (with a sampling rate of 30ms, so TI=0.2s).

    One thing that helped was to make a guess at the target PWM setting when the setpoint was changed (using d RPM/ d PWM =24 and the current PWM setting and RPM value), then setting the cumulative error to what it would be in steady state at that PWM. I then set the PWM to five times as far from current PWM as the target PWM to make the transition as fast as possible without increasing overshoot, making sure to clip to the legal 0..255 range.

  • Write a simple control loop for controlling the temperature at the thermistor, by adjusting the PWM for the resistor.  This might get messy, as the fan speed probably affects the rate of transfer from the resistor to the thermistor (the thermistor is in the air stream blown over the resistor, not touching the resistor).

    When I started working on this, my power supply failed. I’m afraid it might have shorted when I was rewiring things (though I never saw evidence for a short). I’ll leave it overnight (in case there is a resettable poly fuse) and check it in the morning. If there is still no power, I’ll open the case and see if there is a replaceable fuse inside. I’m afraid that this may have a soldered-in non-resettable fuse, which would be a terrible design—setting me back a couple of weeks as I either order a replacement fuse or a replacement power supply.

    Correction: the power supply was fine—I’d managed to blow a circuit breaker for the room. I’m not sure how I did that, but resetting the circuit breaker fixed the problem. I now have a temperature control sort of working—I still have to tune the control loop, but I was able to get the thermistor to about 30°C (400 as the Arduino reading) and hold it to within about 0.3°C. There was a pretty substantial overshoot at the beginning, which I’ll have to look into controlling—the temperature controller may need to be critically damped. Now it really is time for me to get some sleep.

  • Put the whole thing into a styrofoam box, to see whether extra venting is needed to allow things to cool down, and to see how tightly temperature can be controlled.
  • Design and build baffling for the fan to get better airflow in the box.
  • Figure out how to get students to come up with workable designs, when they are starting from knowing nothing. I don’t want to give them my designs, but I want to help them find doable subproblems.  Some of the subproblems they come up with may be well beyond the skills that they can pick up in the time frame of the course.

PWM heater and fan

Filed under: freshman design seminar — gasstationwithoutpumps @ 00:18
Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Now that I have a power resistor and heatsink, and have verified that my power supply is capable of delivering 50W, I can try making a thermal control system for an incubator box as I hope to get the freshman design class to do.

Before building a complete control system and tuning a proportional, PI, or PID controller, I decided to check each of the components:

  • 1.8Ω resistor and heatsink (already characterized in still air in the previous post). Initially I was going to use the 8.2Ω resistor, but it heated so slowly once bolted to the heatsink that I wasn’t sure that students would have the patience to wait for it—they might conclude that things weren’t working.
  • NTD4858N-35G nFET for PWM control of the heater.
  • fan.  I bought a SanAce 40 109P0412P3H013 fan with PWM control and tachometer feedback, and I wanted to be sure that I could control the fan speed and read the tachometer.
  • thermistor. I had some NTCLE100E3103JB0 thermistors around that I had never used.  They’re not ideal for measuring temperature of resistors (they only go up to 125°C), but they should be find for measuring air temperature around 35°C, which is what the incubator will mainly be used at.
  • Arduino board (actually a SparkFun RedBoard, which is plug-compatible with the Uno R3, but has has a more reliable USB interface and is slightly cheaper.

I started out hooking up the nFET and the 1.8Ω resistor and making sure that the nFET did not get too hot.  It seems to be ok.  When I was using the 8.2Ω resistor, I measured the voltage drop across the resistor and the across the nFET, getting a 57.6mV drop from drain to source, with a current of about 9.024V/8.21ohm = 1.099A.  That’s about a 52mΩ on-resistance, and I was expecting more like 7mΩ–10mΩ.  My gate voltage was around 5V (bigger than the 4.5V of the data sheet), which should have given me lower on-resistance.  The only things I can think of are that I had more wiring resistance than I realized (quite likely, but not likely enough to add over 40mΩ), and that I was measuring around 1A, not around 10A, so perhaps there is a small-voltage effect that I don’t know about.

I should probably test the voltage drop again with 1.8Ω resistor, and see whether the on-resistance is still so high.  Better probe placement may get me more accurate voltage measurements also.

The fan runs fine at 9.212V at about 6850 RPM.  Setting the PWM input line of the fan to 0 drops the speed to about 710RPM, and setting the PWM duty cycle to a half sets the speed at about 4120RPM.  The fan is a bit noisy for such a tiny fan at the highest speed setting, but reasonably quiet at lower speeds.  I suspect that bolting the fan to a piece of masonite as a baffle would reduce the fan noise, as I think quite a bit of it was from vibration between the case of the fan and the metal plate it was sitting on.

The tachometer on the fan provides an open-collector output that I read with an interrupt input on the Arduino (pin 2, interrupt 0). I recorded the time between interrupts and converted it an RPM measurement.  The tachometer worked fine when I was just using the fan, or when the resistor was either completely off or completely on, but when I tried using PWM on the resistor, the tachometer readings became nonsense.

I looked at the tachometer signal with my oscilloscope and saw that the PWM transitions for the resistor resulted in huge spikes in the tachometer output that triggered extraneous interrupts.  I suspected noise coupled through the power supply. Adding a 10µF bypass capacitor to the 9V power supply to the fan reduced the problem considerably, and a 470µF aluminum polymer electrolytic cleaned up the power supply even more.  The 10µF alone was enough to eliminate the extraneous spikes in the middle.

I think that I should try adding some gate resistance to the nFET to slow down the rise and fall of the PWM signal a little, to reduce the inductive spikes and make the bypass capacitors more effective.

I noticed that I was still getting some readings that were half the duration that I was expecting.  These could have been caused by ringing at the other transition of the tachometer pulse, so I tried eliminating the ringing by adding some capacitance to the line and changing the pullup resistor.  These attempts were not very successful, so I decided that hysteresis was needed.  I put a Schmitt trigger between the open-collector output and the Arduino interrupt input, and the signal got a lot cleaner.  There were occasional double pulses at one edge, though, but I found that adding a 1nF to 10nF capacitor in parallel with the pullup resistor for the open collector output smoothed out the high frequency noise enough to get clean, single transitions out of the Schmitt trigger.

I hooked up the thermistor in a voltage divider with 5.1kΩ on the other leg (which maximizes the dV/dT sensitivity at 40.1°C). I used the parameters on the data sheet to plot a calibration curve for the thermistor:

Calibration and sensitivity curves for the thermistor.

Calibration and sensitivity curves for the thermistor, based on the data sheet and a 5.1kΩ pulldown resistor.

The maximum sensitivity of the thermistor circuit is around 33.3 degrees C (~10.4 Arduino LSB/°C).  That’s not a very high sensitivity, particularly given the noise of the ADC.  Note that maximizing the slope at 40.1 °C is not the same thing and having the maximum of the slope at 40.1°C.  If the maximum of the slope was at 40.1°C, the slope there would be less than it is in this plot.

My son wonders why I’m using the Arduino board for this project, rather than the FRDM-KL25Z board that I use for the circuits class or the Teensy 3.1 ARM development board. The ARM processors have more power, more memory, and much better analog-to-digital converters—and the KL25Z board is cheaper.  If I were doing this project for myself, I would certainly prefer the KL25Z board. But it is a little harder to get a beginner started on that board—just getting the first program onto the board is a pain if you don’t have a Windows machine (due to the broken bootloader the P&E Micro wrote).  There are instructions now for replacing the firmware from a Linux system, but I’ve not checked yet whether these instructions work from a Mac.  Even once you get working firmware onto the boards, the development environments are not beginner-friendly.  Well, that is certainly true of the MBED environment or bare-metal ARM environment for the KL25Z boards, but the Teensy 3.1 board supposedly can be programmed from a plugin for the Arduino IDE, which might be simple enough for beginners.  This is something for me to look into more.

Of course, one reason I’m using the Arduino Uno or Sparkfun RedBoard is that they are 5V processors, and most of the power nFETs I’ve looked at need 4.5V on the gate to turn on fully.  There are power nFETs now with lower gate voltages, but most of them are only available as surface-mount devices.  I don’t want to have to add an extra transistor or buffer chip as a level changer for the PWM circuit.

The problem is that these students will be brand new to programming, brand new to electronics, and brand new to engineering—and the course is only a 2-unit course, not a full 5-unit course, so the total time students are expected to spend on the course is only 60 hours. I want them to be able to design stuff quickly, without spending all their time learning to use tools or trying to find workarounds for limitations of the devices they are using. It already bothers me that they’ll probably need to use a Schmitt trigger to clean up the tachometer input, but at least hysteresis was a topic I was planning to cover! (The need for bypass capacitors bothers me less—they are so ubiquitous in electronics that I’ll have to cover them no matter what.)

It’s after midnight now, so I’m going to call it a day.  Here is my to-do list on this project:

  • Check the VDS voltage at 4A on the nFET. Is the on-resistance still much too high?
  • Try adding a 1kΩ gate resistance to slow down the transitions on the PWM, to see if that reduces the inductive spikes and the noise-coupling through the 9V power supply.
  • Write a simple control loop for the fan speed, so that the fan speed can be held constant even when the power-supply voltage changes.  This may be an opportunity to try the P/PI/PID tuning, since the control loop should be fairly fast.
  • Write a simple control loop for controlling the temperature at the thermistor, by adjusting the PWM for the resistor.  This might get messy, as the fan speed probably affects the rate of transfer from the resistor to the thermistor (the thermistor is in the air stream blown over the resistor, not touching the resistor).
  • Put the whole thing into a styrofoam box, to see whether extra venting is needed to allow things to cool down, and to see how tightly temperature can be controlled.
  • Design and build baffling for the fan to get better airflow in the box.
  • Figure out how to get students to come up with workable designs, when they are starting from knowing nothing. I don’t want to give them my designs, but I want to help them find doable subproblems.  Some of the subproblems they come up with may be well beyond the skills that they can pick up in the time frame of the course.

 

2014 July 28

PWM controller

Filed under: Uncategorized — gasstationwithoutpumps @ 21:37
Tags: , ,

For the last couple of days I’ve been working on designing and building a PWM controller capable of handling moderately large currents at modest voltages (5A @ 9V). I don’t need high PWM frequency (4kHz should be plenty), but some of the loads I’m thinking of are rather nonlinear (very little current at low voltages, large but constant current at higher voltages).

I decided to try using an ATtiny chip as the PWM controller, because they are very cheap and can be programmed from the Arduino IDE (using an Arduino board as the ISP programmer).  I first prototyped the design using a Arduino ProMini (so I could add debugging statements and not have to worry about the 1kByte flash limitation of the ATtiny13A).  Once that was working, I rewrote the code for the ATtiny, doing some hand optimization to reduce the code size. I got it down to 880 bytes, but I can see why C is more popular than C++ for the really tiny processors—the C++ and Arduino overhead accounts for about 150 of the 1k bytes of flash!  I could make my code much smaller if I made it more special purpose and did everything in C rather than C++, but once it fit in the 1024 bytes, I stopped worrying about the size.

PWM controller using ATtiny 13A

PWM controller using ATtiny 13A

The design I came up with uses a low-dropout regulator to provide 5V for the ATtiny13A. A potentiometer provides analog input and a nFET provides a low-resistance switch for the output. I used the AOI518, because I have some on hand, but they are reaching the “end of life” so some other nFET may need to be used in a future design (perhaps one of the others in the series, such as the AOI516 which has a slightly lower on-resistance but a slightly higher gate capacitance).

The capacitors C1 and C2 are to keep the switching of the large load from propagating spikes into power supply.  The 470µF capacitor with a 5A current spike should limit the voltage slew to 10.6V/ms—with a 4.7kHz current square wave, this would be about a 1.1V triangle wave.  A polymer electrolytic is used (despite the price) to keep the effective series resistance small.  The one I’m using has an ESR of 9mΩ (@100kHz) and a ripple current up to 6.1A.  The leakage current could be as high as 1.5mA though.  C1 is a small ceramic capacitor to remove higher-frequency noise.  The big Schottky diode on the input is just to provide protection against accidentally hooking the circuit up backwards. I should probably add a 60¢ resettable fuse as well, to keep the current from getting excessive if there is a short.

When there is no load, the maximum current draw is 1.9mA for the pullup resistor R2, 0.9mA for the pot, 4–6mA for the ATtiny13A, and up to 1.5mA for C2, for a total of 8.3–10.3mA.  With a typically 80% efficient 9v switching power supply, this is a waste of about 100mW, or about 0.9kWh/year.

The pullup resistor R2 is not strictly necessary, but was added to keep the PWM pulses clean, turning all the way off even when the load had only tiny current draw—otherwise I could not get very low duty-cycle pulses to work well—the nFET acted as if it were a 1.3nF capacitor and kept a low voltage even when the nFET was off.  With the 4.7kΩ pullup, the voltage goes up appropriately, with a time constant of about 6µs.

So far, I’ve not tried the circuit with a large load—just with a small load that takes 13mA.  With that tiny a load, I don’t see any ripple in the power supply from the PWM.  With a 210mA load, the ripple on the power supply is noticeable: on top of the 20mV of ripple at about 20MHz with no load, I see 30mV of ripple synchronized with the switching of the PWM, when switching 210mA with a duty cycle of 1/2.  Without the 470µF polymer capacitor, the synchronized ripple is more like 200mV, indicating that the capacitor is indeed smoothing out the ripple.

The 30mV swing on 210mA implies that I should see about a 710mV swing if switching 5A.   That shouldn’t cause a problem in my design, but I do need to allow a little more voltage so that the swing isn’t a problem.  I could also use a bigger capacitor, but the polymer electrolytics are a bit expensive, and the regular wet electrolytics can’t handle a big ripple current—one with the same 6A ripple current rating would be 20 times the volume and 3 times the price of the polymer capacitor.

The high-frequency noise is almost certainly coming from the ATtiny, as it is synchronized with the PWM signal. The 5V power supply at the ATtiny is showing a 40mV ripple, which is large considering that there is a bypass capacitor on the Vdd pin.  There is a lot of inductance from the wiring on the board though, which could be increasing the propagation of the high-frequency noise.

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